Bangkok Holiday

I took another ride along the Chao Phraya River late Sunday afternoon, surprised that the boat was extra crowded because of the mothers’ day celebrations. I alighted at the pier closest to the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. The latter is a huge field, almost like the Luneta in Manila sans monuments, where most rallies are held. Throngs of families and tourists alike crowded the surrounding area, but at the centre of it was a ceremony commemorating the Queen’s birthday. So it was a mix of government officials, military men (oh so gorgeous!), and civil servants wearing the requisite yellow shirt to honour the royal family. I caught a parade of students and government workers just outside the palace walls. After which, I took a long walk around the walls of the Grand Palace, realizing that they were making repairs on the roof of some of the structures, so it was not really a good time to visit the place after all.

Darkness quickly set in and I found the surrounding wide avenues (packed with cars, motorbikes, and the ubiquitous tuktuks) blazing in yellow lights, which reminded me of Christmas in the Philippines. I followed the lights towards the monument that commemorates Thailand’s transition from monarchy to democracy in 1937 (I hope I got this right).

Allowing my self to get lost in the crowd, I eventually ended up in front of the Bangkok City Hall, where, to my delight, I found the Giant Swing, used for some traditional ceremonies decades ago. This was supposedly last used at the onset of the Second World War but what remains of it is the red, towering frame.

Between the Giant Swing and the City Hall was a Khon performance, a traditional theatre presentation, composed mostly of dancing and miming, that recounts Thailand’s version of the Ramayana. Most actors wear masks (especially the giants and the monkeys) and the story is narrated off-stage, complemented by melodious live traditional music. I found the actors at the back of the stage (also open to the public) where I snapped photographs of their lavish costumes and intricately-made masks. I was totally drawn by the costumes. They were embroidered with gold-coloured threads, folded and layered in such a way that they remind me of Dior couture gowns. Add to this the ornate masks, glittering bracelets and necklaces, and headdresses inlaid with small glass discs. OMG, calling John Galliano!!!

In the centre of the picture below is the character who plays Hannuman, the monkey king. Isn’t he fierce? I was enormously in love with him. Unfortunately such lovely face would be covered behind a mask when he steps onstage.

I lingered a bit around the backstage area and took pictures of the actresses who were also doing last-minute rehearsals of their elegant dance routine. A little bit later Rama, the protagonist of the story, came down from the stage, hence our picture together. Guess who needs some foundation?

P.S. My PC is set at the required UK English right now, thus explaining the British spelling. No, I’m not just being snobbish (said in a British accent and a stiff upper lip).