Architecture Porn in Yangon

It was late in the afternoon when we arrived in Yangon, and dark, heavy clouds cast a gray pallor to the city. From the cab, though, I had a quick glimpse of numerous old buildings in the downtown area. I was also surprised by the many trees lining the city's avenues. I knew right then I was in for a treat. Lara Stone and I ventured into the streets near our guest house in the evening of our arrival, but I could only see faint traces of the grand buildings wrapped in darkness (Yangon hardly has streetlights to speak of). So the next day, I woke up early to walk around the wet streets of the city; it was monsoon season after all. I've never before been so captivated by so many colonial buildings as Yangon (Hanoi comes close). It was definitely a dream city for architecture lovers because there's always an interesting building nearby. Some of them even prominently display their date of completion, and I saw a good number of buildings constructed in the early years of the 20th century.

Many of the buildings are government offices, most likely the same halls occupied by the British colonial government. There are also buildings used by trading companies, as well as a big share apartments blocks. The apartment blocks are a sight to behold. Occupying blocks and blocks of the downtown area, they are mostly sitting side by side in narrow, straight streets. The first floor is usually a business enterprise, and then very steep and dark staircases lead to the upper floors, some as high as eight stories. The details of the windows are doors are very enchanting. My neck was strained from looking up the multi-colored balconies flanking the streets. Hanging from the balconies are dozens of long strings with clips attached to the end at street level. Because most of the apartment buildings - including the very tall ones - don't have elevators, one cannot go up and down them as much as you like. So when there's a food delivery, for instance, the plastic bag is attached to the string and someone pulls it up.

Charming apartment blocks aside, there are also many imposing colonial buildings in the port area. Some of the roofs of the Bogyoke Aung San Market also has beautiful lines. The Yangon train station is worth visiting, as well as the art deco style cinema houses on Bogyoke Street. There are also numerous mosques dotting the downtown area.

Unfortunately, most of the buildings have not been well-maintained. While it's very romantic to see them stained by time, the moss would eventually affect the structure's stability and it also eats the details of the adornments. I'm particularly worried about the apartment blocks that have been installed with unsightly air-conditioners and plastic or metal awnings that do not go with the buildings' original style. There are also many huge buildings that seemed abandoned. They are practically crumbling, such as one building with a beautiful dome that has caved in.

The most serious threat to Yangon's colonial architecture though is the number of newer buildings popping in the downtown area. Every time I see a new building I think of the old structure that used to stand on the site. They new buildings are made of concrete, glass, and steel that in no way try to blend with the surrounding old styles. I wonder how soon enough before these new buildings obliterate the old ones, thus the loss of Yangon's charm and heritage.

Imagine Peace

I made a trip to one of my favorite buildings in BKK, the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. Let me remind you first how it looks like inside. The lines and light of the building are truly elegant, and the space never fails to inspire me even if I've been there so many times.

On my visit last weekend, one of the floors had an exhibit of students' works.

Another section had a show titled "Be Skeptical." Quite a good number of quirky multi-media pieces in this floor. Here are some of the works that struck me.

The main exhibit is called "Imagine Peace: Contemporary Art in Thailand in an Age of Disorder," which is organized by the Ministry of Culture "to heal the emotional emotional wounds of the people and to recover Thailand's public image" as well as "(to) encourage artists to create art works to express their desire for peace in Thai society." Hmmm...

Check out this piece by renowned artist Louise Bourgeouis, which is part of this exhibit.

Also there are two pieces by one of Thailand's premiere artists and architects, Sumet Jumsai.

 More beautiful artworks below...

Bangkok's Scala

One of my favorite hang-outs in Bangkok is the Scala theater in Siam Square. Liwayway, Bubbles, and I usually watch movies there instead of going to the mall. It's less crowded in Scala and the movies are cheaper by 60 baht.

While waiting for a movie in the lobby one night, I closely inspected the tableau that rests on top of the entrance of the theater. The sculptured piece is a long series of scenes of Asian cultural expressions (music, dance, architecture) and I thought the style looked rather familiar.

I thought it had a Filipino touch to it, something I've seen in one of the facades of a building along EDSA in the Pasay part, near the Trader's Hotel. Is it the Coconut Hotel or Copacabana or something? (Can someone here help me ID that building?)

I went to other end of the sculpture (I honestly don't know the proper term for it) and my hunch was proven correct that it was designed by a Filipino. It indicated that it was designed by Ver Manipol and was executed by Fed Tagala. A Google search of Manipol hardly showed anything except that he has an office in BKK and that he also did the reliefs of the Holy Redeemer Church in Soi Ruamrudee (see this link).

The wall relief is only one of the many treasures of Scala, a part of the Apex group of cinemas. The term supposedly means "stairs" and I wonder if it is named after the La Scala opera house in Milan, after all there's also a cluster of cinemas called the Lido just nearby.

Located in the heart of a bustling commercial area (pretty much across Siam Discovery, Siam Center, and Siam Paragon), the cinema was built in 1967 by Chira Silpakanok (source: BK Magazine).

The building is truly an architectural centerpiece that must have seemed more grand in its prime years. Nonetheless, today it still stands a remarkable example of an architectural style of that era (perhaps some branch of modern architecture?) .

The facade is rather unpretentious; in fact, as seen in the photo above, the marquee still uses those letter cut-outs. Marble floors greet you at the entrance and a sweeping twin staircase leads you to the main lobby. Hovering above the staircase is a gigantic chandelier made up of a cascade of glass orbs. The main lobby is a forest of tall columns that spread towards a canopy of golden light fixtures. You buy your ticket from a wooden booth where they still tear and stamp your ticket stub (yes, sans computers).

While waiting for your movie to start, you can settle in the sitting area amidst a backdrop of tall, exquisite wood carvings. Going inside the actual screening hall, ushers in yellow coats part the heavy curtains that open to the 800-seater cinema. The seats are comfortably tiny and they do not swallow you in a mass of cushion.

After more than forty years the Scala has obviously aged. There's a rather stuffy smell inside the cinema and in most cases less than half of the seats are occupied.

Nonetheless, because of its enduring grandeur I attach a sense of nostalgia to the Scala. It's always nice to bask in its unique and inviting charm, which definitely gives reason enough for my amigas and me to keep on going back.

Exploring the Palaces of Petchaburi

Today I took a short but truly wonderful trip with Shanghai Tang to Petchaburi, a province around two hours south of BKK.

Our first stop was the Phra Nakon Khiri National Museum (constructed in 1859), a palace complex sitting on top of a hill with breath-taking views of Petchaburi.

We started with a very brief cable car ride to the top of the hill. We then explored the compound, which is a mix of a palace, a stupa, and a smallish temple all scattered on three main peaks of the hill top. The style of the structures is an elegant mix of Chinese, European, and Thai influences and the buildings seem to rise from a teeming canopy.

We also dropped by the imposing Phra Ram Ratchaniwet (constructed in 1910-1916), a resort house of King Rama VI. A German architect was commissioned to design the palace. The vast interior has dazzling touches of Jugendstil or Art Nouveau, with glazed tiles on the floor and the walls.

Obviously, the style is very European, but was adapted to tropical climate through numerous wide windows and grills on the walls to enhance air circulation. The steep roof was maintained though, which to me was just an awful waste of space. LOL. But then, palaces are mostly whimsical anyway.

Nice 2 meat you?

It's the second day of the long weekend in Thailand. Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday next week are non-working days in observance of Buddhist Lent. I was planning to take a trip to some island in the east but alas I did not have anyone to go with.

In the end that proved to be a blessing coz I had more money for shopping. LOL. Today I even dropped by my favorite second-hand store that sells women's clothes. Love their stuff there coz they're all unique and quirky... not to mention cheap too! I ended up with a white shirt with some twisted detail.

Burberry Prorsum isdatchyu?

And oh, I also bought from the same shop that black jacket I'm wearing in the picture below. I love women's clothes!!!

But goodness, somebody please tell me to put an end to buying more and more and more. I'm serious; this shopping "spree" has to stop, it's not funny anymore.

Anyway, BFF Bubbles and I went to yet another night of clubbing in Silom last Friday and then Saturday evening we roamed around the Khao San Road area, basically people watching.

Today we visited the Bangkok Arts and Culture Centre, which has become one of my favorite places to hang out in since it opened last year. The space itself is striking, with the interior's shape compared very often to New York's Guggenheim Museum (I only saw the latter in pictures).

The curves are indeed elegant with many of its cavernous halls using natural lighting. It's also encouraging that there are regular shows in BACC and that many people, especially Thais, seem to visit it, thanks to its central location.

They've recently installed this humongous alien-like sculpture in front of the building and it has since caught the fancy of many of BKK's denizens.

There were a number of separate exhibits this time. There's even a show of the Philippines' Baldemor (I forgot his first name, basta it's not Leandro, LOL) in celebration of 60 years of Thai and Philippine diplomatic relations.

There was also an exhibit of Italian and Thai artists titled White Spring (if I remember it correctly). Perhaps the most fascinating piece is by Fabrizio Corneli, who used cut-outs and halogen lamps to cast large shadows on the wall.

A section was dedicated to Australian Brook Andrew also showed some of his works that use a variety of media.

The top floor of the BACC was allocated for a rather irreverent and eye-catching collaboration between a French and a Thai artist titled Nice to Meet You.

Oh, one more thing... we recently discovered this Chinese dumpling store in Central World that has the most amazing sticky rice thingie wrapped in some leaves (gosh, somebody please tell me what this is called in Thai).

I ate there three times this week!

And oh... did I mention we camwhored?