Pang Nga Bay... Ito Na Ba Yun???

PJ and I arrived at the Pang Nga bus station at 4 a.m. last Monday. As the sun rose, we were stunned by the towering karst cliffs gleaming in the early morning light. We realized that the town of Pang Nga sits at the foot of this surreal landscape and nothing could've been a better sight after a long bus ride from BKK. Our host, Tone, picked us up at the station and brought us to his house that is surrounded by rolling hills of a rubber plantation. Driving around, we soon realized that rubber is the main industry in this part of the country.

Pang Nga town early in the morning

Moi at the rubber plantation. I didn't know that rubber grows this tall ha. Wala yan sa Surigao, shet.

Later in the afternoon, we went to the Phuket International Airport (a good 40 minutes by car from Pang Nga) where we picked up his cousin who arrived from Bangkok. We were joined later on by one of Tone's former students. The group headed off to Phuket Fantasea, one of those glittering shows that feature elephants, tigers, trapeze artists, dancers, pyrotechnics, giant sets, rain-on-the-stage, and so on. The ticket price comes with dinner, but I think it's a bit pricey for a show that is garish and lacks context (oh the never-ending spectacularization of Thai culture is getting on my nerves already). Anyhoot, we were there and we tried to enjoy the show nonetheless (no photos allowed). The show ended at 11 p.m. and we still had to drive for an hour back to Pang Nga town.

Phuket Fantasea, a must-not-see in Phuket

The following day, PJ and I took a tour of Pang Nga Bay, probably the most popular destination in the province. We hopped on a long-tail boat crammed with a cargo of dried shrimps and boxes of fish sauce. The boat meandered around the vast mangrove forest set in a magnificent backdrop of soaring karst walls. The boat dropped us in Panyi Island, which is home to a Muslim village sitting on stilts. We allowed ourselves to get lost in the tiny alleys until we reached the "soccer field" of the local school that is cantilevered over the murky water. From there we had a good view of the bay, just perfect for camwhoring.

Top: Jetty to Panyi Island. Bottom: Panyi Island.

The fags invade Panyi Island in Pang Nga Bay.

For only 800 baht, we took another long-tail boat to the famous James Bond Island (supposedly The Man with a Golden Gun was shot here in the 70s). Oh, our boatman (I don't know how else to call them) was a young, dark, gorgeous thing with the cutest smile in the entire Pang Nga Bay. On our way to James Bond Island, our boat went under a cave just big enough for small boats to pass through (it reminded me of Suhoton Cove in Bucas Grande in Surigao). A number of tourists were kayaking around the cave.

Scenes in Pang Nga Bay, including the cave in the sea with tourists in kayaks.

The boatman said he was bringing us to a beach good for swimming. We were disappointed that what he meant was a strip of sand in a tiny cove with uninviting murky water. He then said that he will leave us in the cove for five minutes as he supposedly needed to "go to the toilet". And who can refuse such an excuse, especially when he flashed his beautiful smile? However, PJ and I panicked as he sped away. At that time we were dead sure that we were stuck in that freaking cove until the tide washes us away to the Andaman Sea. But indeed cute boatman picked us up long before we could finish a stick of cigarette. The fags were relieved (and hopefully the boatman too).

The gorgeously crispy boatman at the cove "good for swimming". Duh.

He then brought us to James Bond Island, which is a disappointing column of rock sticking out in the middle of a cove. Methinks: this is it??? That rock must feel like one superstar as hordes of tourists gawk at it and as cameras click relentlessly. It was mayhem dear. But well, we were there already so we took loads of pictures and PJ even decided to take a dip in the water, the only tourist to do so (the water was murky because of the mangroves). Some tourists were kayaking around the area and some were getting tans on the decks of their yachts.

James Bond Island

Tourists at James Bond Island. Parang artistang pinagkaguluhan ang isla ha. Ang ganda nya.

After a day spent in Pang Nga Bay, we went back to the mainland, said goodbye to cute boatman, and took a songtaew back to Pang Nga town just as rain came in torrents. Tone drove us back to his secluded house in the hills where we spent an evening with his parents.

With Tone's parents.
Salamat, salamat sa mainit nyong pagtanggap sa amin.

To see more camwhoring on our first two days, click here.

Bitch is Tired

Ugh. I'm exhausted. I arrived in BKK 4 a.m. today. Lots of things to write about and pictures to post, but I'd save that for tomorrow and the coming days. Right now I'm just really exhausted, especially after the overnight bus ride (12 hours) from Krabi.

Hayan po, patikim ng camwhoring ng bading.

Pranang Beach, Krabi

James Bond Island, Phang Nga Bay, Phang Nga Province
(na-sobrahan ng sunblock ang fez! ewwww!)

Pasyon... este, Fashion Night

Ugh, this is not a Holy Week post. It's obvious that I'm not into God. I'm more superficial than that, but then let me tell you about last night. I had one of the most exciting moments of my life EVAR.

I was walking around Siam Paragon when I noticed the huge tent for the Bangkok International Fashion Week (BIFW), which opened a couple of nights ago.

You know me and fashion, we're like best friends.

But damn, I'm just a mere mortal and there is no chance for me to go inside the tent. I would've been willing to give a hand job AND a blow job to any person who can give me free tickets but even when I stayed outside the tent for fifteen minutes looking like a starved puppy, hoping that any influential person would need a hand job and a blow job, I was out of luck.

Feeling defeated, I walked towards Central World where Elle Fashion Week was opening that night. I know, the fashion industry in BKK is sorta weird to hold both shows on the same weekend. I don't get it my self.

Anyhoot, I milled outside the tent hoping again that I could use my world-renowned dexterity. I was dying to watch a show that for a second I thought hell I could even offer any orifice of my body just to go inside the bloody tent.

Dahling, the stars aligned in my favor, sans the use of my whoring skills. I casually walked to the registration counter, flashed them my bestest smile and asked how I can purchase tickets (purchase daw oh, parang ang yaman!). The girl that heaven sent for me said that they don't sell tickets but she would be willing to give me a complimentary pass.

And I thought, oh dear, am I supposed to do a cunnilingus to her (ewwwwww!!!)? The next thing I know, she unzipped her pants, opened her legs, and shoved her vajayjay on my face she pulled a ticket and handed it to me with a sweet smile. And I told her, "Are you sure you don't want any cunnilingus?". Not.

So off I whisked my skinny ass inside the cavernous tent that was by then filled with the most fashionable people around. I felt so out of place! All those chica people surrounding me just brought my self-esteem to a new low. And oh, don't get me started on the yummy guys.

Nonetheless, I turned into chica mode and strutted towards the bleachers (tama ba ang term?). There was no available seat anywhere, some were sitting on the aisles, I had to stand on the side with the air conditioner blasting behind me.

I was however compelled to crouch on my spot when the daughter of Thailand's crown prince, Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana (who is a designer herself, having held a show in Paris last year), came in (some Thai custom in the presence of royalty). God, that was my first ever Thai royal sighting and I couldn't be more excited on what was already a surreal evening.

The show I watched was from the house of Kai. Since it was Spring/Summer 2008, most of the dresses were, you know, perfect for the beach and so on. No photography allowed. It's a very wearable collection but it switched to a more artsy direction for the evening pieces. (God, I'm not a fashion critic, ok?)

What was more exciting for me though was watching the models. Sonia Couling, a popular MTV VJ and a superstar in Thailand, opened the show. Damn, she's fierce. I wish I have her long neck, she looked liked a graceful swan.

I also caught glimpse of many of the familiar Thai female models who I only see on TV and magazine covers.

The parade of the models at the end of the show was by far the most exciting part for me. All those lithe bodies floating like birds on the runway made me cream my pants (to borrow Bryanboy's term). I adore those bitches and I'm willing to do anything just to be their best friend.

By this time I was already in heaven even if my legs were numb from squatting. In 20 minutes the show was over but I had this dazed look for the entire evening.

From Centralworld, on my way to a friend's house, I passed by Gaysorn, probably the most exclusive mall in BKK. Their window displays of Louis Vuitton and Prada were magical. You know, like I only drool over these clothes on TV and the magazines but seeing them as actual pieces was stupefying.

Off to Get a Tan... Not

My god, this is a trip that's like eight months in the making.

When I was working in an inter-government NGO in Manila, I met this Thai school-teacher, Tone, who was attending a workshop on Southeast Asian education (or one of those) in my office. That was in July, a month before my scheduled relocation to BKK.

When he learned about this, the warm guy that he is, he invited me to his home province of Phanga (I'm not sure about the spelling) and offered to bring me to neighboring Phuket. We have been out quite a number of times when I came to Thailand. He and his friend took me to Baiyoke, the tallest building in the country, on my second week in BKK. Last February, he also brought me to his campus where he is finishing his PhD.

So on the afternoon of Sunday, PJ and I are leaving on a 12-hour bus ride to Phanga in the south of Thailand.

Coming from Surigao, which is surrounded by water and has some of the most astounding beaches around, I'm really bored with beaches. I swear, I abhor sand on my feet and sun on my skin. I just don't dig them, I can't help it, I'm sorry. I'd rather go to the mountains or visit a museum or some crumbling temple if given the choice.

But dahling, who the fuck can resist Phuket? Haler, like most people would kill to see Phuket. So I said, all right, might as well get this over with and tick Phuket off my list of places to see in Thailand.

I did not prepare much really. I just have to make sure that I bring loads of sunblock and my sunglasses. I did not even bother to research about the place (which is absolutely not me!). I'd leave the itinerary to my host. I remember Tone telling me that he might drive us to Krabi as well and even see the Phi Phi Islands if we have enough time.

Oh, camwhoring it is then. I'd try my best to post pictures during the trip.

Did I say I did not prepare for this trip? Ooops, I lied. I have actually been dieting since, I don't know, January? I'm on this new diet. Well, I don't eat anything and when I feel like I'm about to faint I eat a cube of cheese. I'm just one stomach flu away from my goal weight. Wink, wink!

I shall be back on Friday.

Boys Will Be Boys

A recent MSN session with a friend went like this:

Zya: I'm seeing someone right now.
Akez: Good for you, dear.
Zya: The thing is, he has a boyfriend. I'm his 'mistress'!
Akez: Oh no...
Zya: Well, we see each other once a week, and we have fun. That's it.
Akez: But didn't your ex cheat on you also? That caused your breakup, right?
Zya: I know.
Akez: So why are you allowing yourself to be an accessory to cheating this time?
Zya: Hmmm... I guess I'm not up for a serious relationship right now.
Akez: So, does it justify anything?

I don't really get it. I know this guy as someone who's a cut above the rest. Well, that's what I thought. I couldn't be more disappointed that he fell in this whole cheating trap, although he's more of the "accessory" this time rather than its victim. I'm hardly judgmental of my friends, but I really lost respect for him, I'm sorry to say that.

Why am I seeing more of these? Cheating bastards! There are countless accounts/confessions in blogs and it breaks my heart every time I read them. (I swear, I have to stop reading some blogs at some point, they only give me a more pessimistic view of gay life.) Most of them have some way of justifying their infidelity and they always end up depressed and languishing in guilt. But they still do it anyway. And recently, I've heard of two friends who fell victim to the wandering dicks of their partners. Just the same, they fell into self-pity, regret, and hate.

It's quite unfortunate coz in the tricky world of gay dating, it seems we would all fall to cheating eventually. Is this a matter of who cheats who first? It sounds like a game to me and most gay men appear to just play along. I've heard it too often that it is the nature of men (whether gay or straight) to play around. So is it too much to expect that we all grow up somehow? As Miranda Priestly said: "Am I reaching for the stars here? I don't think so."

2nd Blog Anniversary

"Don't talk to me about rules, dear.

Wherever I stay I make the goddamn rules."

-- Maria Callas

(the photo above is the fierce Sasha Pivavorova as the Divina)

This blog was born on 20 March 2006 through this senseless post. Kawadjan.blogspot.com is a sequel to my long-abandoned Friendster blog that I started in August 2005 (which means that I’ve been blogging for nearly three years now).

I realized that there’s just a multitude of bloggers out there who seem to have interesting stuff to say, so I might as well join the fray. I did not have a vision of what this blog is going to be, except as a journal of all things mundane about my boring life, written in the most incoherent way.

From then on, blogging helped me record my experiences and thoughts on a whole range of things -- movies, books, travel, people, fashion, family, dieting, friends, dating, TV, work, exercise, opinions, drama and of course the indispensable campiness. The entries are pretty random and often pointless, a good reflection of who I am in fact, which is exactly the essence of this blog.

When I started moving around, I eventually used the blog as a means to update my friends about the stuff I’m doing. I know it sounds silly, but whenever my friends ask me what I’m up to lately, I tell them to check my blog “and everything’s there”. Sweetie, that saved me countless of emails and phone calls, right?

Well a few strangers drop by regularly, some of whom stumbled upon my blog one way or another. I really find that rather... cute.

To my 2 readers out there, thanks for standing my vanity.

And 315 posts later, kawadjan trudges. I’m looking forward to more inanities, drama, and camwhoring (of course). Stay tuned bitch.

Bump

In the end, the Bangkok gay scene is a small village where everybody knows everyone. Oh, make that: where everyone has dated everyone. This dawned on me when I went out with friends on yet another night of debauchery in Silom last Saturday with an all-Pinoy gay cast composed of PJ, Singlet, Margie Moran, and moi. The whole evening, I was battered with several incidents of bumping into people who are somehow connected with me or the people I know.

For instance, I saw Hombre, who I went out with a couple of times in September (was it?). He's not really based in BKK but he comes here quite regularly. We haven't bumped into each other in ages and I was quite surprised to see him again after all these months. I would've loved to say hi to him except that I didn't know exactly what to say. The whole time we were in the bar, I agonizingly avoided having eye contact with him for fear of that awkward moment of being forced to say hi to each other, which did not happen, thank God.

Later in the evening, Margie Moran gasped when Mr New Yorker, who he dated several months back, brushed past him. I could not also help shrieking like a schoolgirl when I realized that I went out with Mr NY as well (sans sex, I have to note) on my third week in BKK. Margie Moran seemed to be seething with bitterness over Mr NY for some reason I could not figure out (Margie Moran tried to explain it to me but I could not really pin point where his disgust for Mr NY comes from). While circulating in the cramped bar, Margie Moran and I found ourselves right in front of Mr NY, who seemed to have forgotten who we were. So deadma na rin ang mga bayot.

It was a bummer that the bar had to close promptly at 2 am. Dumbfounded, scores of sweaty gay men streamed out of the bar and milled at the mouth of the soi, not knowing what to do. The Pinoys wanted to head home early as they were supposed to attend mass the next day (mga dalagang Pilipina talaga no?). But before that, we decided to drop by McDonald's where we bumped into a Pinoy teacher, Frodo, who just came out from the bath house (gasp!). He joined us in our table, and the inquisitive bitch that I am, I asked how PJ and him met.

"Nag-sex na kase kami noon," Frodo replied in a as-a-matter-0f-fact way.
"Punyeta, wag kayong magbiro ng ganyan," I retorted incredulously.
PJ said, "Di nga, nag sex talaga kami. Pero matagal na yun."
"Jusme."

Damn, who has not dated who? A few months in this city and I realize that my world is shrinking very quickly.

Photo credit: DJ Station

Missing Pinoy TV

I was at the Filipino store in Silom last night, a routine I do on weekends to munch on a pack of Chippy or Boy Bawang together with a bottle of C2. The Sari-Sari Store, which I featured here before, has a TV that shows a Filipino channel. This is really a big draw for my friends and I especially when we want to check out the showbiz news on Sundays via, sabay-sabay nating sabihing... The Buzz!

Last night, a couple of ABS-CBN soap operas were on (I think one is called Lobo and I forgot the title of the other). Having came across a number of equally revolting Thai soap operas, Filipino soaps are not any better. You know, cheesy plots, predictable story lines, convenient coincidences, rough special effects, etc.

But then, I realized that the acting on Pinoy soaps are way better than in Thai ones. I swear that statement comes from an objective perspective. I was especially excited to see the wonderfully preserved Pilar Pilapil still delivering a fierce performance. Ditto for some of the young actors such as Angel Locsin, the delectable Jake Cuenca, and of course the impeccable Piolo Pascual (pictured). And oh dear, our male actors are more gorgeous and manly than the Thai actors who look like plastic dolls slathered with foundation, smeared with thick eyeliner, and who went on a glutathione overdose.

Meanwhile, my friends and I went berserk when we saw this hilarious commercial of Nestle Cream. But before that, this spot evokes a very authentic feel of Manila's streets, which I seem to be missing already. The cinematography and music are also superb. So I did not see the punchline coming, which sent us rolling on the floor while surrounded by racks of Datu Puti, Argentina Corned Beef, and Maggi Savor.

Major genius! Watch.

The text at the end of the commercial translates: You should've used Nestle Cream.

I Just Wanna Say

There's no excuse for being fat.

Go Watch

I'm starting with my Oscar season only now, catching as many films as I can. I miss the pirated DVDs of Makati Cinema Square and Quiapo. Last year, by the time the Oscars was on I had already watched every nominated movie courtesy of those cheap DVDs.

There's actually scores of them in the sidewalks of BKK, but I don't have a TV with me, much less a DVD player. So every chance I get, I make the long bus ride to Siam Square where the "art films" are screened. Here's my take on some of the Oscar winners and nominees this year.

I watched No Country for Old Men a couple of days before the Oscars (it eventually won Best Picture, Best Director, Best Supporting Actor, and Best Adapted Screenplay).

At that time I was already aware that it was considered as the front-runner for the major awards, including Best Picture, so I was looking forward to find out what the fuss is all about.

But hell, I could not even understand the movie because the accent was just too twisted, they sounded like they're gargling the whole time. I happen to follow the plot, but I missed big time the supposedly profound introspection of the characters, which carry a lot of the message of the film.

I do give merit the film's effectiveness in shrouding a sense of dread all over the film, at times I felt I was watching a horror film. Still, the accent just did not work for me, in the end, I was kinda disappointed -- more at my self than with the movie.

On the other hand, There Will Be Blood (winning Best Cinematography and Best Actor) simply took my breath away. It was enthralling in all aspects: the music, the acting, the cinematography, the editing. Major genius!

I'm such a big fan of PT Anderson, who also came out with Magnolia, one of my top-three fave films.

Anyhoot, between No Country for Old Men and There Will Be Blood, the latter has a stronger emotional impact on me. I was not particularly impressed with the performance of Daniel Day Lewis though. It's the kind of acting in which you can see that he's really acting rather than being the character.

Overall however, the movie is an experience that haunted me for days after I watched it.

Last Monday, I caught The Kite Runner (nominated for Best Original Score), which I've been eagerly waiting for since I finished reading the book about a couple of years ago.

The novel, to start with, is not a work of exceptional quality. If anything, it was pure emotional manipulation page after page after page (my sister was bawling the whole time she was reading it).

I did not have much expectations from the movie either. True enough, the film did not hit the spot. I did not feel invested in the struggles of the characters, despite such heart-wrenching situations they faced. It is simply ineffective.

And last night, I finally saw Once, the film that won the Best Original Song for Falling Slowly.

Again, the Irish accent was dreadful. I have a big problem with accents, ok?! Half of the time I did not have any idea what was was coming out of the mouths of those characters. The Thais had the benefit of subtitles and somehow I feel left out when they laughed at certain dialogs.

I enjoyed listening to the raw, powerful songs though. The film truly excelled in using music to string together the lives of the main characters, giving the viewer a some memorable songs that you want to Google the next day.

Acting-wise, the two main lead characters were very effective in conveying their conflicts and aspirations, I only have admiration for them.

This weekend, I'd try to catch Persepolis in faraway RCA House and hopefully Micheal Clayton in Esplanade. But really, I'm dying to watch Juno and La Vie En Rose (did I spell that correctly?).

Note to Self

"One day at a time--this is enough. Do not look back and grieve over the past for it is gone; and do not be troubled about the future, for it has not yet come. Live in the present, and make it so beautiful it will be worth remembering."

Photo credit: Hedi Slimane Diary

I Only Have Eyes for You

Another one for you, guapo.

I Only Have Eyes for You
(version of Jamie Cullum)

Are the stars out tonight?
I don’t know if it’s cloudy or bright
’cause I only have eyes for you, dear
My love must be some kind of blind love
I don’t see anybody but you
The moon may be high
But I can’t see a thing in the sky
’cause I only have eyes for you.

I don’t know if we’re in a garden
Or on a crowded avenue
You are here, so am i
Maybe millions of people go by
But they all disappear from view
I only have eyes for you
My love must be some kind of blind love
I don’t see anybody but you

Pitong Buwan

Oh dear, I nearly forgot that another month had passed in BKK. Work had been pretty hectic lately, I missed the full moon, my indicator of my stay here. Seven months. More than half of my one-year work contract is over and a few months more to look forward to. Only the heavens can tell if my contract is renewed (I have a strong feeling that I'd get another contract though), but I know I have more than enough reason to stay in the City of Angels.

Senseless talak coming up.

When people back home ask me how's life like during the past seven months, I always say that it has been a long time since I'm this happy. I remember saying the same when I lived in Davao for four years. Just like Davao, I felt easily at home in BKK. Life's pretty convenient here and there are just endless things to do. I like my cities coarse and chaotic, and BKK is just that and more. I can't help falling in love with it. I can certainly see my self living happily in BKK for the next few years (that is, if life remains kind).

While work is not necessarily very fulfilling at this point, I see various opportunities for me to start my own projects that contribute to the organization. I'm fortunate that I have a director who encourages the staff to pursue our passions. I'm currently cooking something related to urban landscapes and heritage and should thus be worth looking forward to.

On the aspect of my social life, I'm blessed with a number of friends who are very dear to me. If anything, I've been most lucky with friends who I get to know in the places I've lived in. In the absence of my family, I find comfort in the fact that I have friends who will keep me grounded. In Davao for instance, I met some of my closest, closest friends who I shall treasure forever (hi Daisy, hi Sarah, hi Mickay, hi Grace, hi Yolly!). The same is also possible for the people who I consider my friends in BKK (hi PJ, hi L!). On the other hand, I certainly wish I would have more Thai friends, although I heard quite often that that can be very challenging.

Lastly, I shall touch on dating, which for the longest time had been a much neglected aspect of my life and was only revived when I moved here. I had a rough start, I swear. Little did I know that dating in BKK can be very fierce. I simply lacked the experience, and naturally I made wrong turns here and there, which ultimately left me frustrated. And so someone comes along, an amazing person I should say, with whom I connect in a spectacular way (kailangan ba talagang spectacular ang gamiting term? charing!). There's a lot a potential right here dear if things go well.

And so, I can only wish that this BKK stint would go well overall. The past seven months had been one hell of a ride. I feel like I'm done with the adjustment phase only now and so this is a critical period of transition in all aspects of my life. I see exciting changes ahead.

Exploring Khmer Temples in Isaan

I'm currently in the town of Surin where we are sleeping for the night before we finally head home to BKK tomorrow morning. Today was major Khmer temples! We visited three monuments, built in the 11th and 12th centuries, around the provinces of Si Saket and Surin, checking those laterite temples that one of my colleagues of so crazy about.

Of course I am not complaining coz I'm just tagging along with the group. If anything, the past couple of days were marvelous, learning about archaeology as well as seeing the beautifully arid landsape of Isaan. And yeah, I have to mention that the food is ahhhhmazing in this part of Thailand.

First stop for today was Prasat Hin Wat Sa Kamphaeng Noi, which is nothing much but a heap of laterite blocks precariously leaning towards the ground. The temple had to be supported by a contraption of wood, wire, and rubber otherwise it would totally collapse. The monument used to serve as the centerpiece of an Angkor-period hospital.

The next monument we visited is the charming Prasat Hin Wat Sa Kamphaeng Yai. It's located within the grounds of a contemporary Buddhist temple complex, hence, a juxtaposition of the old and the new that one hardly sees around. This Khmer monument uses sandstone, laterite, and bricks as its main materials. The details of the lintels are relatively well preserved, reminding me of Bantaey Srei in Angkor. Again, I have my archaeologist colleague to explain of all this stuff.

We then moved to the province of Surin where we visited the stunning Prasat Hin Chom Phra. Surrounded by a moat, the monument was originally Hindu and was converted into a Bhuddist temple by some Lao king in the 13th century. This temple is again made of sandstone, laterite, and bricks.

My camera ran out of battery so there was little camwhoring done today (damn!).

Climbing Phreah Vihear

Just a quick update from Si Saket, a town eight hours by car from Bangkok. My colleagues and I arrived late last night in this charming and chilly town. And today we visited the highly contested archaeological site of Phreah Vihear (in Khmer) or Phra Viharn (in Thai), which rests on the edge of a 600-meter high cliff, overlooking the flat plains of Cambodia.

The ancient Khmer temple, built between the 10th and 11th century, is a part of Cambodia but one can only access it through Thailand. For a while both countries vied for its jurisdiction and it was not only in 1962 that the International Court of Justice declared it as a part of Cambodia. Recently, the Cambodian government expressed its plan to submit it for listing as a World Heritage Site, and somehow this revived the Thais' sentiment over their ownership of the temple.

Anyhoot, today we crossed over the border to Cambodia, so technically I was in Cambodian soil for roughly a couple of hours. It was a steep 162-step climb to reach the first gopura (similar to a gate). As I was with an archaeologist friend, she explained to me a great deal of the details of the temple, especially the bas reliefs and lintels that adorn the walls of the complex.

The state of the structures are pretty much in bad shape, hence, the resolve of the Cambodian government, as I was told, to enlist it as a World Heritage Site to raise funds for restoration. Having seen before a number of Khmer temples in both Cambodia and Thailand, Phreah Vihear is very familiar to me already. The magnificent views that surround the place, together with its historical distinction in terms of Thai-Cambodian relations, make it a remarkable visit anyhow.

And oh, did I mention that I camwhored?

Tomorrow we are moving to Surin, a few kilometers from Si Saket, to visit more Khmer Temples made of laterite (gasp!).

A Trip to Phrae

Well, well, well... look who's back?

I arrived early this morning from the province of Phrae in the north of Thailand, eight hours by train from Bangkok. Our office has a project on cultural awareness and heritage preservation in the area in which we partner with an NGO called House of Books. The latter mainly caters to kids in the town and facilitates activities (such as local tours and pottery and cooking lessons) that enhance the kids' understanding and appreciation of their local culture. I'm not really a part of the project, but since I'm a big pakialamera, I pressured my colleague to bring me along with the team.

We visited the 100-year old train station in Ban Pin on our first day...

Last Saturday, I volunteered to cook breakfast for the team. Adobo was of course the easiest dish, although I have not made it since, I don't know, the first EDSA revolution or something. Anyhoot, they loved it. They really did LOOOOVE it, I'm surprised as well.

Later in the day, we brought the kids to the Khum Jao Luang, the palace of the last King of Phrae, built in the 1880s. It's a nice mixture of Western and Thai architecture. This is apparently called a Manila-style house! No wonder it reminded me of some of the old houses back home, especially the lace-like trimmings on the windows. The basement of the building served as an eerie dungeon where prisoners were kept. I hated seeing those chains that they used for the prisoners during those days.

We also visited a house that sells shirts, scarves, and pants made of cotton that were dyed with indigo. The place was done in traditional Lana architecture, which means that it stands high on stilts and with an open floor plan on the second floor. Most northern Thailand houses are made of teak wood, the area being the epicenter of the teak wood industry of the country.

Later in the afternoon, the group visited an organic vegetable farm where the kids squealed at the sight of mud fish and pigs. I spent my time taking pictures of the flowers.

The next day, a group of conservation activists took us and the kids on a walking tour of the old teak houses in the district. Most of the houses are not occupied anymore, with the owners choosing to build newer houses adjacent to the old ones. A number of these houses have been demolished through the years, making calls for conservation very critical. The guide was pointing out a lot of the details of the houses we visited but since he was speaking in Thai I did not pick up anything at all *sob*.

At around lunch time, we met the mayor , who guided us around the ancient wall of the city. We started at the spot of what remained of the moat and we clambered to the top of the wall (made of mud) where they placed a path for strolling. The walls had been overgrown by tall trees now, making the walk very pleasant indeed.


In the afternoon, while the kids tended to their compost pit at the House of Books, my colleague brought me to the Baan (House) Vonburi, which is the house of the first wife of the last king of Phrae, built in 1897. The house, again following the Manila-style, was painted pink because the wife was supposedly born on a Tuesday. In Thai culture, each day of the week has a corresponding color and that also serves as your personal color. It's a wonderfully-preserved house with old furnitures and items are placed carefully around the rooms to evoke old times. We found a crib that was supposedly used by four generations of the family.

It has been a long time since I've been to a place as rural as Phrae. Life is really slow. We spend our afternoons and early evenings picking fruits and listening to the wailing of a traditional Thai instrument called saw, which one of the volunteers play (incessantly). Sometimes, our host would perform traditional dance to the music of the saw.

My stay in Phrae ws relaxing for the first two days but on the third day I was dying to go back to the chaos of the city. I had great memories of the experience though. Particularly stirring was how the residents truly value their heritage. Their effort of instilling such pride among the kids is probably the most important aspect of their work.

And of course, the requisite solo shot (and you actually thought I'd forget that?).

Tomorrow, I'm off to yet another province in northeast Thailand.